A Taste of the
Peak District
Peak District, Derbyshire traditional gritstone climbing at Froggatt Edge …
Froggatt Edge - climbing on a traditional gritstone crag in the Peak District National Park.
Froggatt is situated in the heart of the Peak District and is a popular crag. The track along the top is frequented by hikers and people out for a gentle stroll so you can be guaranteed an audience at weekends.
It is genarally approached by a pleasant and flat walk in lasting about 20 minutes from the car parking near the Grouse Inn. If you use the public car park rather than the parking alongside of the road, be warned, I have heard that car crime is rife as it is a fairly secluded spot. I do not know if there is any truth in that.
When approaching from the Grouse end, the first proper buttress you get to holds the classic Strapiombante, an E1 with a traumatic finish - the last move is the usual place where you will fall off, the rest has pretty good holds. The problem with the finish is the shelf, which is not the greatest of hand holds plus a lack of footholds. Tall buggers can just reach up and get a good flatty, but that is rather ducking the issue!
The next 100m or so are broken and there are some climbs in amongst the jumble but the next real quality spot is Sunset Slab. The eponymous rout is virtually a solo, if you miss the last move there will be sirens and if you are lucky, a helicopter to take you to hospital. Having said that, it is a worthwhile route (especially if it is your mate's lead!!). Sunset Crack on the other side of the slab is well protected and after surmounting the initial bulging crack is a bit of a romp.
A bit further along is the cave, to the left of the cave is the VS of Hawk Crack, a tough start but some fine jamming and an airy finish make it worthwhile. Brightside to the right of the cave is a fabulous route, E2 with some interesting and absorbing climbing on small holds.
Moving further along, Terrace crack is a VS that is worth looking at, a little sandy but pleasant. For a soft touch Severe, Heather Wall is the place to be! Just to the left is the HVS of CMC Slab, a tricky start and effectively a solo unless you arrange some gear in the crack of Heather Wall. Todys Wall itself is a great climb at HVS, try getting on to the block without grovelling! The move over the lip is well protected and the final crack is just brilliant.
Next
on the agenda is Three Pebble Slab (pictured left),
E1, with the famous dodgy gear in the half height hole. Attaining the upper
slab
is
the crux, then
it just feels a bit fluttery. The pinnacle is just round the corner from
3 pebble and contains the Joe Brown HVS Valkyrie, so you
can probably guess what that is like! The crack is a classick and strenuous
exercise in jamming and the second pitch is altogether different. Also on
the pinnacle are some tough solos. Diamond Crack is a good but rather short
climb just to the right of the pinnaccle in the recess.
Moving further round you come to probably the most popular part of Froggatt, the slab recess area. The easy centre section is bounded on either side by hard slabs, on the left, Long John's Slab (aptly named as the starting moves are much more taxing for the short) and Dawes Downhill Racer. The eponymous route Slab Recess is HS and the start can be a little traumatic if that is your leading grade, the holds are not exactly helpful but protection is perfect (bomber nuts), the top is fairly straightforward. The easiest VDiff in the world is found on the right of the recess (Gamma) where bizarrely a group of passing Japanese tourists clapped my better half as she topped out (plus the obligatory photos!). Sharing the same start is Allen's Slab, S, I love it for the airy traverse. Do try to keep left of the crack when finishing as that belongs to the one move wonder Trapeze Direct. The move flummoxes a lot of VS leaders (and seconds). On the right is the Great Slab with a variety of hard and unprotected slab climbs.
The final main section is the chequers buttress area where you will find Brown's Eliminate and Green Gut, thae latter is an HS which is worth doing, although I always manage to make it awkward somehow. The front of Chequers Buttress is split at the bottom by Chequers Crack, great if you like slippery and awkward finger cracks whilst round the corner is the classic line of Chequers Buttress, HVS, which must rate as one of the most photogenic climbs in the Peak District. The difficulties come when moving from the ramp to the 'thank god' jug on the arete via a couple of finger cracks.