A Taste of the
Peak District
Peak District, Derbyshire climbing on the gritstone Gardom's edge, Baslow …
Gardom's Edge is a sprawling crag, over 1 km in length and comprises numerous buttresses separated by broken ground. Access to the buttresses is most easily achieved from to top as there are no really well developed paths along the bottom. It can be tricky to find where are the first visit or two, but you soon get to know the various routes down to the base of the climbs.
Parking close to the crag is not possible, the only official car park hereabouts is at the Robin Hood pub. You then walk back towards Baslow down the main road, cross a stile and head up to the end of the crag, about a 10 - 15 min walk or so in total. There is parking on the verge at the other end of the crag, by the first crossroads on the Baslow to Sheffield road. Then you negotiate the usually boggy patch to pick up the path, parallel to the main road which leads to the top of Gardom's Edge. About a 10 minute walk or so.
OK, so you have reached the crag. Starting from the end nearest the Robin Hood, the first buttress has a Severe at the right hand end (Elliott's Crack) which is worth doing if that is your grade. A little awkward at the top. To the left of that - see what you make of Right Hand Pillar Crack (HVS)! The best line however is Left Hand Pillar Crack (E1), a fine layback crack but watch out, it can sap your strength quite quickly I find if you don't move fast enough.
The next decent buttress, moving away from the Robin Hood Pub end is Apple Buttress. Apple Arete at VS is a real peach and you can feel 'way out there'. There are a few other worthwhile routes here, Bitter, which is a tough VS, Cydrax HVS and not much protection when you feel you need it the most - though it is probably only a diff if you are tall - and round the other side is the strenuous Layback Crack (VS) and the classic N.M.C. Crack (V Diff). There are a few nondescript routes along the wall to the left but the Waterloo Sunset (E3) takes the left hand arete of the buttress. That is way beyond me but I am assured it is fine if delicate and slightly worrying climbing.
I haven't done much on the next few buttresses as they are either unappealing or way too hard (like Gom Jabbar at E8, Ecky Thump (E7), Make it Snappy (E6) and the Crocodile (E3). If you can find Bilberry Buttress, try Gardom's Unconquerable (VS), we had some entertainment value in using the guidebook and a friend as the first protection as that combo was the only gear we had that fittted in the wide crack!! Luckily, it was not tested. Just along from here is Undertaker's Buttress, the classic route is a 2 pitch VS whilst the direct goes at E1, put up by Biven, Peck and Marshall in 1956.
There are various other starred routes but the other classics of the crag are the 3 star Eye of Faith at HVS (E1 if climbed by the more direct start) and Moyer's Buttress (HVS). The start is slabby, heading round the corner to the side wall is powerful, achieving the face is awkward and delicate and the long finishing slab feels delicate and exposed.
Definitely worth visiting although it can feel greasy as it is quite enclosed at the base.
Disclaimer (probably not necessary but just in case ...: This is not a guide, it is for general information and personal opinion only - just to give you a flavour of the place if you are not familiar with it; we can accept no responsibility for your actions should you visit Birchen Edge and try any of the climbs mentioned. You decide for yourself whether to climb them or not and must assume responsibility for your own safety.
- Self catering accommodation near Baslow, ideal for Gardom's Edge and also Birchen Edge
- Bed and Breakfast accommodation near Baslow