A Taste of the Peak District

Accommodation and attractions of the Peak District of the UK

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Brief crag info:

Burbage North is another crag favoured by beginners and groups because it has a good selection of friendly routes of good quality. Most of the routes are quite short, about 8m in length. It does attract more extreme graders but mainly because of the bouldering - there are plenty of classics to be had such as Banana Finger and the routes on the ‘Remergence’ block. Not all of the bouldering is hard, there is lots for mere mortals as well. The classic route of the crag is probably The Knights Move (HVS) although Long Tall Sally (E1) is a favourite first extreme lead. Close to Knight’s move is the amusing Great Crack (VS), most people use the holly tree for all its worth but purists would not) offers what is described as a fierce pull. Go and find out for yourself. Holly Ash Wall (Hard V Diff) is a rather polished but fairly pleasant climb with some other easy climbs next to it. 20 Foot Crack (S) near the road end of the crag can be a little awkward to start but is worth doing.

 Twin Chimneys Layback (Hard V Diff) looks grotty, it is in a sheltered corner but is really worth seeking out, as is Brooks' Layback (VS). Most people jam the latter route but it is a perfect layback crack. In the Sentinel area is the one star VS of Black Slab, it can feel a little exposed but is a fine slab (you can get a piece of gear into the break!). If you want a bit of entertainment, try Pulcherrime (VS), somehow I always manage to make it about ten grades harder than it is - in a different place each time. The Grogan (HVS) can offer some good entertainment as well - having thin strong fingers helps. Lie Back (HS)  is a one move wonder but is worth it for the monster flake. At the far end of the crag just before Long Tall Sally, there are a couple of jamming cracks - the 3 star Obscenity (VS) and 2 star Amazon crack (HS). Most people seem to use the arete to help on this one (see person in grey half way up in the following picture).

Click here for a couple more pictures of the crag Knights Move and Brookes Layback).