Brief crag info:
The best routes at the Roaches are generally VS and above. It is split into three main areas, the Lower Tier, Upper Tier and Far Skyline. Theere is no real classic of the crag, at VS there is Valkyrie plus Black and Tans, at HVS The Sloth and Saulís Crack ...
There are a good number of epic struggles on the Lower Tier, Valkyrie direct and the Mangler spring to mind.
It can be quite busy at peak times but if you head for the Skyline area, to the left of the path onto the top of the Roaches ridge beyond the end of the Upper Tier, you will generally find no queues.
Take your bouldering mat as well, there is plenty to occupy you at all grades, all along the Roaches ridge.
Below - The Sloth area of the Upper Tier.